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1911 craziness
#1
A couple weeks ago I fitted a Dlask lightweight short trigger to my Series 80 1991A1. This pistol was built by Clark Custom as a Hardball gun and had a long target trigger.

Anyhow during the first test firing I found that the first round in a magazine wouldn't fire without an inordinately heavy trigger pull. I ascribed this to the way I'd set the overtravel and backed it off a little more. Some light test firing seemed ok. But, during today's IDPA match I found that on a couple occasions the the trigger required a very heavy pull. This time it happened midway through a magazine full, but only twice during 5 stage match.

Any thoughts besides buy a Glock?
Brick, proud to be a member of pa2a.org since Sep 2012.
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#2
Brick;11152 Wrote:A couple weeks ago I fitted a Dlask lightweight short trigger to my Series 80 1991A1. This pistol was built by Clark Custom as a Hardball gun and had a long target trigger.

Anyhow during the first test firing I found that the first round in a magazine wouldn't fire without an inordinately heavy trigger pull. I ascribed this to the way I'd set the overtravel and backed it off a little more. Some light test firing seemed ok. But, during today's IDPA match I found that on a couple occasions the the trigger required a very heavy pull. This time it happened midway through a magazine full, but only twice during 5 stage match.

Any thoughts besides buy a Glock?

Buy a Glock Roflmao But no really, you should Big Grin
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#3
AndrewG23;11164 Wrote:Buy a Glock Roflmao But no really, you should Big Grin

thanks for nuthin" besides I already have one, A G19 which doesn't fit the bill for CDP Division. But, I am seriously thinking of going for a XDM 5.25 .45 Comp since that one gun can be used in all the semi-auto IDPA divisions.
Brick, proud to be a member of pa2a.org since Sep 2012.
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#4
I would look over everything and make sure the trigger systems are 100% installed correctly. If you are not sure - or are not sure about what you are looking at - send it to the factory or a good gunsmith.
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#5
put the old trigger back in and see if you have a problem?you took a pistol thst was set up and changed something. the worst thing for 1911's or any gun is people making them "better".
bob308, proud to be a member of pa2a.org since Sep 2012.
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#6
Get your magazines that you use in that pistol handy.

Detail Strip the pistol.

Remove the trigger.

Slide the trigger over each magazine, moving the trigger fully to the front and rear. If you are noticing any drag or bind then the trigger bow is out of spec. If you don't see anything with this test.....

Insert the trigger into the frame. While looking at the back of the frame, pull the trigger. Any slop in the trigger bow is a sign that the trigger needs to be replaced. Also do the same but look down from the top of the pistol magazine well. Again any bowing out, or movement of the trigger bow means its new trigger time.

If both of these tests come out clear, then the sear spring may not be in spec, or bent the wrong way causing the issue you are feeling.

New sear spring time. Wilson or Ed Brown stainless FTW.
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#7
Well I think I got it covered. I had the overtravel set up a little too tight. Backed it off another 1/4 turn and I went through a 90+ round practice session today with no problems.

Fitting the new trigger was a little more involved than the first time I did one years ago. That time all I did was polish the bow until the the trigger would slide with ease in the ways. This time I had to file down the shoe to get it to fit the trigger window OK and make sure there was no drag. So now with the frame detail stripped and the trigger installed, when holding the frame vertically with trigger pointed down, a mere tap of the finger will make the trigger pop.

Thanks for the help!
Brick, proud to be a member of pa2a.org since Sep 2012.
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#8
Brick;16113 Wrote:Well I think I got it covered. I had the overtravel set up a little too tight. Backed it off another 1/4 turn and I went through a 90+ round practice session today with no problems.

Fitting the new trigger was a little more involved than the first time I did one years ago. That time all I did was polish the bow until the the trigger would slide with ease in the ways. This time I had to file down the shoe to get it to fit the trigger window OK and make sure there was no drag. So now with the frame detail stripped and the trigger installed, when holding the frame vertically with trigger pointed down, a mere tap of the finger will make the trigger pop.

Thanks for the help!

i did not know that trigger had a shoe on it... .my bad.

Or the trigger is a Gold Cup type and its wider than the average 1911 trigger....

If it is somewhat wider than the standard 1911 trigger, the only other thing I can think of is holster/trigger contact. Back in the day the Gold Cup had a wider trigger than the standard 1911, and if you were not careful in your selection of holster, then the holster can catch the trigger.

Hope I'm wrong on that part Smile

Glad you got your problem fixed. Trigger stops can be a PITA sometimes lol.
There is no Liberty without Law.
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