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Powder for reloading rifles
#21
I just now realized I did not state the caliber.

This is for .223.

So I purchased Small Rifle Magnum primers.

Does this direct me to or away from certain powders - say to or away from faster burning?

One local gun shop owner recommended 748 and BLC-2 with others like Varget also being good.

He also recommended Match Grade primers but that was an accuracy issue.

Thanks again for any input.

God bless!!

PPP
Proud to be a member of pa2a.org since 11:18 PM Sept 7, 2012!
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#22
To narrow it down a tad some more info is helpful. What firearm are you loading for? Are you going for .223 or 5.56? Is your use plinking and varmints or target competition, perhaps self defense? Can make a difference in components and price.
From a trailer park on a strip cut where my neighbors call me Mister.
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#23
Cephas:

.223 Stevens Model 200

Primarily for target and my wife may try Ground Hog hunting with it this coming Spring.

I see on the Varget container that it is also good for .22-250 which is what I will use for Ground Hog.

Also, I found a farmer that offered his land for some coyote hunting which sounds like tons of fun (again .22-250 or .243 Remington Model 7).

My .22-250 is a Savage Model 10.

Thanks.

God bless!!

PPP
Proud to be a member of pa2a.org since 11:18 PM Sept 7, 2012!
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#24
No experience with varget so can't comment. Would suggest looking at the twists on the rifles and selecting a bullet both can use for economy sake. Then look for a specific powder that'll possibly work. For me I found H335 and 55gr Sierra BTSP worked very well in both .223 and 22-250 I had. YMMV. Leaned to the boat tail not only for the aerodynamics, not that I'm that good of shot, but found they seat easier during the loading process. Many use mag rifle primers in their rifle loads. However mag primers burn hotter and longer than standard primer so they can raise the pressure. Advise starting 10% off max load listed and work up. Old school was mag primers for mag cases, loads over 60 grs and advised with ball powder in rifles. Some hunters in extreme conditions feel they give a more reliable ignition. Since I've only used std primers in loads listed for such perhaps someone with more experience with it could comment. If you go through the paces to work up a load with those primers and down the road switch to standards new testing will have to be done.
Edit, side note. Used H335 as it was very close to a mil-surplus powder I previously used in these arms. Turned out it worked well for me.
From a trailer park on a strip cut where my neighbors call me Mister.
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#25
With the info you've supplied I'd say just go ahead and start working up loads with your magnum primers as you would with regular primers. Your guns have strong enough actions to safely handle the pressures of the maximum loads published if they're properly assembled, just be aware that the pressure may vary somewhat with the magnum primers so you'll want to be diligent about watching for signs. Depending on your powder/bullet combination the difference may be so slight that it's barely noticeable or you may start reaching undesirable pressure before you reach the maximum load as published. There can be differences in ignition from one primer manufacturer to another using regular small rifle primers. Published data accounts for that if there isn't a specific primer listed in the recipe, that's part of the reason you'll hear some people say that they are loading over the maximum load, they've found a recipe combination that works well together without exceeding maximum chamber pressure. I personally have never substituted magnum primers for regular primers but I certainly wouldn't hesitate to do so if that's what I had readily available, I'd just back off of my regular powder charge a little bit (to about 10% less than maximum, or to the published starting load) and see how they perform then work my way up (or down) to best accuracy being mindful of pressure signs. Look closely at the primer on that first shot.
Another possible problem could be too light of a load. If you don't generate enough pressure the case mouth won't properly seal against the chamber wall and/or the primer won't properly seal against the primer pocked and hot gas can escape and blow back past the bolt into your face. This isn't something you hear much about because most people have an invincible, macho attitude and strive for more power and don't want to be bothered with wimpy loads, but it can and does happen. Minimum loads are stated as minimum for that reason.

The condition of your barrel can cause pressure variation too, as shown in the third pic. That's a barrel that creates too much resistance due to copper fouling, that same load may have been fine with a clean barrel.

Here are some pictures showing some of the pressure and danger signs:
[Image: 1.jpg]

[Image: 308primer1.jpg]

[Image: copperpressure5x350.jpg]

[Image: th?id=H.4835313685235566&pid=15.1]

Even if I had a recipe to recommend in one of your calibers using magnum primers you'd be wise to start lower than that and work up your load to match your particular gun.
Your rifle's chamber and neck can make a difference, as well as the neck thickness and case capacity of your brass, your loading dies and the amount of crimp, (if any), will also cause variation. As you can imagine it all adds up to the final solution of the equation. Different lots of the same powder can perform differently too. Most of the variables mentioned can be critical when loading near, at or over maximum listed load data, if you're loading mild loads it's not as great of a risk to make a substitution or other minor change.
I blew a primer out of a .243 load many years ago. I was using a load that was less than maximum with a regular large rifle primer, all things were equal with that batch of loads with the exception of one oddball case mixed in. There was one Norma case mixed in with my Winchester brass and I didn't notice it. I didn't investigate neck wall thickness or case capacity, I was just glad it wasn't worse. You can bet that I pay close attention to the headstamps now, even if I'm certain they all match I still double check them. (That's one of the things I like about single stage reloading instead of progressive, it's easier to double check details like that when you handle each one multiple times).
It's all a matter of getting familiar with the science of the process and monitoring your results. People who "invent" new cartridges have to start somewhere, there isn't data available for something that hasn't been done before.
Moly coated bullets reduce pressure and adjustments need to be made to accommodate that also, you don't see very much load data published for moly coated bullets, the shooters have to figure that out by themselves or ask someone who has already figured it out.
If they can do that with a cautious approach you can certainly make this substitution with similar caution.
With the questions you ask and the caution you appear to have I'd say that you shouldn't have any problems at all.
Be cautious, shoot safely and good luck.
There are three types of people in the world:
Those who make things happen,
Those who watch things happen,
And those who wonder what happened.
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#26
Have you loaded moly coated bullets? Pros/cons? Seems a bit of a black art to me.
cgk, proud to be a member of pa2a.org since Sep 2012.
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#27
cgk;60875 Wrote:Have you loaded moly coated bullets? Pros/cons? Seems a bit of a black art to me.

I haven't loaded them for any of my guns but that's all my dad shoots. He coats his own bullets, starts with a new barrel and lets the bullets deposit a coating of moly as he shoots them, then shoots nothing but moly coated bullets. He shoots mostly AI or wildcat and works up his own loads, I couldn't begin to tell you how that compares to standard published load data.
As far as being a black art, I guess it's for the more experienced reloaders who demand accuracy and know the tricks to get their setups to perform as good as possible and then some. He likes to shoot silhouettes at 1000+ yards as well as woodchucks well beyond 1000 yards. He's been doing it for many years and has learned more than I could ever hope to know.
There are three types of people in the world:
Those who make things happen,
Those who watch things happen,
And those who wonder what happened.
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