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WARNING: Do NOT buy a safe with a Sargent and Greenleaf (S&G) lock
#1
stop 
I'm fuming right now.

I bought a Browning Theftguard safe from Tanners a few years ago. It came with an S&G electronic keypad lock. From the day I got it, I had nothing but problems. It would refuse to take the correct code more than 50% of the time. I called the safe manufacture (which is not actually Browning, btw) and they promptly sent me a new lock and instructions on how to install it. I installed the new lock, and at first it worked 100%. Then about a month later, it started having problems. It would fail to open about one in ten attempts. I thought it might need a new battery, but that did not fix the problem. Over the next few months, the problem got worse. Eventually it got to the point where it would fail once every 4 attempts, and stayed that way for awhile. I just dealt with it (though annoyed by it) because it still worked most of the time.

Well now I'm doing my tax return, and need to get into the safe for my daughter's social security number. It failed FIVE times in a row and turned onto "lockout" mode. I had no idea what the lockout time period was, and was seriously considering opening the safe with brute force. But I kept my anger under control and pulled apart the lock instead. I unplugged all the cables from the PCB board thinking that maybe I could reset it, but it still wont open. I even tried a fresh battery to no avail. The safe is no longer under warranty, and I'm going to have to get a locksmith out here to open the safe and replace the lock with a mechanical one, which I don't have money for of course.

Angry

HeadBanger

Whack

ETA: Finally got the safe open. Apparently the lockout period is only 5 minutes. But now I don't know if I should lock it back up (and risk being in the same situation again) or keep it unlocked and risk being robbed. Maybe I should just take all of my guns and sling them on my back until I get a new lock.
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#2
Once you get it open, you should probably disassemble keypad assembly. Remove the button membrane from the board underneath and thoroughly clean both the membrane and the board. That'll probably fix it up for you. I've run into all kinds of issues with these soft button tough pads just stop working because they get some dirt underneath.

It could also be cold solder joints, but I'd clean it first.
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#3
bac0nfat;69330 Wrote:I'm fuming right now.

I bought a Browning Theftguard safe from Tanners a few years ago. It came with an S&G electronic keypad lock. From the day I got it, I had nothing but problems. It would refuse to take the correct code more than 50% of the time. I called the safe manufacture (which is not actually Browning, btw) and they promptly sent me a new lock and instructions on how to install it. I installed the new lock, and at first it worked 100%. Then about a month later, it started having problems. It would fail to open about one in ten attempts. I thought it might need a new battery, but that did not fix the problem. Over the next few months, the problem got worse. Eventually it got to the point where it would fail once every 4 attempts, and stayed that way for awhile. I just dealt with it (though annoyed by it) because it still worked most of the time.

Well now I'm doing my tax return, and need to get into the safe for my daughter's social security number. It failed FIVE times in a row and turned onto "lockout" mode. I had no idea what the lockout time period was, and was seriously considering opening the safe with brute force. But I kept my anger under control and pulled apart the lock instead. I unplugged all the cables from the PCB board thinking that maybe I could reset it, but it still wont open. I even tried a fresh battery to no avail. The safe is no longer under warranty, and I'm going to have to get a locksmith out here to open the safe and replace the lock with a mechanical one, which I don't have money for of course.

I would contact the manufacturer again nonetheless, and let them know of your history with failures on top of failures of the product. They should offer you something. Besides the official warranty, there is the "applied merchantability warranty." You can claim in good faith that the locks on your safe NEVER worked right, even when replaced under warranty. Who knows? You might end up with a whole new safe if you're nice, but firm, about it.
gascolator, proud to be a member of pa2a.org since Nov 2012.
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#4
Great, I just ordered a cabelas signature 50 that has an S&G lock. I was really against an electronic lock, but didn't have a choice at that level.

I hope I have better luck. Good luck getting yours sorted.

Justin
[Image: pafoasig.png]
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#5
streaker69;69334 Wrote:Once you get it open, you should probably disassemble keypad assembly. Remove the button membrane from the board underneath and thoroughly clean both the membrane and the board. That'll probably fix it up for you. I've run into all kinds of issues with these soft button tough pads just stop working because they get some dirt underneath.

It could also be cold solder joints, but I'd clean it first.

Could be a solder problem, but I don't think it's the buttons, because I get a loud "beep" with every press of the button. I'm thinking more along the lines of the ribbon cable that goes from the keypad portion to the actual mechanical part of the lock. Ribbon cables are notorious for failing and being finicky.

Either way, I've lost faith in electronic locks and just want to go all mechanical from here on out. I wonder how much it will cost to upgrade to a mechanical lock? $100? $500? Somewhere between?

gascolator;69336 Wrote:
bac0nfat;69330 Wrote:I'm fuming right now.

I bought a Browning Theftguard safe from Tanners a few years ago. It came with an S&G electronic keypad lock. From the day I got it, I had nothing but problems. It would refuse to take the correct code more than 50% of the time. I called the safe manufacture (which is not actually Browning, btw) and they promptly sent me a new lock and instructions on how to install it. I installed the new lock, and at first it worked 100%. Then about a month later, it started having problems. It would fail to open about one in ten attempts. I thought it might need a new battery, but that did not fix the problem. Over the next few months, the problem got worse. Eventually it got to the point where it would fail once every 4 attempts, and stayed that way for awhile. I just dealt with it (though annoyed by it) because it still worked most of the time.

Well now I'm doing my tax return, and need to get into the safe for my daughter's social security number. It failed FIVE times in a row and turned onto "lockout" mode. I had no idea what the lockout time period was, and was seriously considering opening the safe with brute force. But I kept my anger under control and pulled apart the lock instead. I unplugged all the cables from the PCB board thinking that maybe I could reset it, but it still wont open. I even tried a fresh battery to no avail. The safe is no longer under warranty, and I'm going to have to get a locksmith out here to open the safe and replace the lock with a mechanical one, which I don't have money for of course.

I would contact the manufacturer again nonetheless, and let them know of your history with failures on top of failures of the product. They should offer you something. Besides the official warranty, there is the "applied merchantability warranty." You can claim in good faith that the locks on your safe NEVER worked right, even when replaced under warranty. Who knows? You might end up with a whole new safe if you're nice, but firm, about it.

Yes, they will certainly be hearing from me. I'll only accept a replacement lock if it's mechanical though. Maybe that'll mean getting a whole new door.

JustinHEMI;69346 Wrote:Great, I just ordered a cabelas signature 50 that has an S&G lock. I was really against an electronic lock, but didn't have a choice at that level.

I hope I have better luck. Good luck getting yours sorted.

Justin

Isn't this the second time I had a rant about a bad product, and you bought it right before hand? I'm pretty sure it was you but don't remember what the product was.
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#6
Try to contact Tanners as well they should be able to contact Sargent and Greenleaf for you
morpheus6d9, proud to be a member of pa2a.org since Oct 2012.
[Image: display.png]
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#7
...and here I was today thinking about swapping my dial lock for an electronic lock.
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#8
streaker69;69354 Wrote:...and here I was today thinking about swapping my dial lock for an electronic lock.

You can have mine, what shipping method do you prefer?
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#9
bac0nfat;69352 Wrote:
streaker69;69334 Wrote:Once you get it open, you should probably disassemble keypad assembly. Remove the button membrane from the board underneath and thoroughly clean both the membrane and the board. That'll probably fix it up for you. I've run into all kinds of issues with these soft button tough pads just stop working because they get some dirt underneath.

It could also be cold solder joints, but I'd clean it first.

Could be a solder problem, but I don't think it's the buttons, because I get a loud "beep" with every press of the button. I'm thinking more along the lines of the ribbon cable that goes from the keypad portion to the actual mechanical part of the lock. Ribbon cables are notorious for failing and being finicky.

Either way, I've lost faith in electronic locks and just want to go all mechanical from here on out. I wonder how much it will cost to upgrade to a mechanical lock? $100? $500? Somewhere between?

gascolator;69336 Wrote:I would contact the manufacturer again nonetheless, and let them know of your history with failures on top of failures of the product. They should offer you something. Besides the official warranty, there is the "applied merchantability warranty." You can claim in good faith that the locks on your safe NEVER worked right, even when replaced under warranty. Who knows? You might end up with a whole new safe if you're nice, but firm, about it.

Yes, they will certainly be hearing from me. I'll only accept a replacement lock if it's mechanical though. Maybe that'll mean getting a whole new door.

JustinHEMI;69346 Wrote:Great, I just ordered a cabelas signature 50 that has an S&G lock. I was really against an electronic lock, but didn't have a choice at that level.

I hope I have better luck. Good luck getting yours sorted.

Justin

Isn't this the second time I had a rant about a bad product, and you bought it right before hand? I'm pretty sure it was you but don't remember what the product was.
Yes...., mtac. Smile

From now on I'll just ask you first. Big Grin

Justin
[Image: pafoasig.png]
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#10
Electronic locks? What about EMP?! COME ON DUDE!!! Tongue
"As I lay rubber down the street I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God, protect my sweet ride."
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