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What Do You Use To Protect Your Firearms?
#1
I know that this has been discussed many times but I have been looking into what the best rust prevetative is. Some say tests show Eezox other tests say CLP so I cant find any info on if one definitly out performs the other. Please let me know what you would recommend and what to stay away from. I have been using CLP and my guns are in a safe with three large desicants. It seems to me the CLP either evaporates or dries up but maybe it leaves a coating behind, I dont know. Thank you for any replies.
das, proud to be a member of pa2a.org since Sep 2012.
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#2
I have fallen in love with Fluid Film. This stuff does everything.
Quote:Guns: Spray FLUID FILM on a rag and then rub down the firearm, leaving a thin film which will not leave fingerprints or come off on hands or clothes. Provides tack-free mechanism lubrication. Use on bolts, slides and magazines. Will not affect the bluing. Conditions wood-stock. Excellent for use on black powder guns and for moisture prevention.
http://www.fluid-film.com/applications/recreation/

I've been bashed several times on other boards for referring automotive products for firearms use. Maybe I'm the only one who realizes that a firearm is a mechanical device...I'm not sure.
I have found that some of these products work far better than things marketed for firearms and often at a cheaper price. I've also found that some gun solvents are basically the same and just in a different can.

Here's another great automotive product that has expanded to include firearms. I use it and have notice some fantastic results.
http://www.zmax.com/products/firearms/
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#3
Remoil or CLP, whichever I have on hand.
sgtsandman, proud to be a member of pa2a.org since Nov 2014.
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#4
IMHO, I treat my firearms like a FINE mechanical device. Point being, I don't use automotive products on them. Don't get me wrong, I've poured motor oil into Ma Deuce to keep her from burning up, as motor oil is better than no oil. I would not, however, pour motor oil into a wind up clock or fine watch. With that said, I use Remoil. To me, the key is FREQUENCY. I pull ALL my weapons at least twice a year a give them a wipe down and oiled barrel patch, regardless of when I last touched or fired them. If longevity is what you are after, pack them in Cozmolene, and wrap them in brown paper.


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DeadEye, proud to be a member of pa2a.org since Jun 2013.
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#5
3in1 has done me just as good or better than most gun oils.
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#6
pinhead1979;169944 Wrote:3in1 has done me just as good or better than most gun oils.
Thank you for responding. Most of the things I have read say 3in 1 is not very good at preventing rust. This is why I want to hear from people who actually use the products.
das, proud to be a member of pa2a.org since Sep 2012.
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#7
das;169922 Wrote:I know that this has been discussed many times but I have been looking into what the best rust preventative is. Some say tests show Eezox other tests say CLP so I cant find any info on if one definitely out performs the other. Please let me know what you would recommend and what to stay away from.

I have been using CLP and my guns are in a safe with three large desiccants. It seems to me the CLP either evaporates or dries up but maybe it leaves a coating behind, I don’t know. Thank you for any replies.

OK, I'm going to try to keep this brief: Personally I don't use Eezox. I think it's got a scary MSDS, and contains several carcinogenic chemicals that I don't want, either, in my home or on my skin. I, also, feel the same way about either flavor of brake and carburetor cleaner - I don’t use them.

For the past two years I’ve used FrogLube on the outside of my guns. I follow the manufacturer’s directions; and, after I finish, ‘baking’ the FL treatment into a gun I disassemble it and, very carefully, wipe off any drips or residual excess that I find might have leaked into the mechanism. (Either this, or I’ll stand the gun upside down or hang it while it’s being treated in order to prevent any excess from dripping into the action.)

By using this technique I’ve managed to avoid ALL of the usual complaints about FrogLube being sticky, and gumming up a firing pin, or some such. (It’s common sense, actually!) After, ‘baking it in’ with either my wife’s hair dryer or one of our electric space heaters, I use a soft cotton wash cloth to put a high gloss on the parts. (FL's application process is the same as using wax to polish an automobile. You shouldn't be able to see the wax when you're done.)

FrogLube is not a gun oil, or CLP; and it should not be used as such. It is, instead, an outstanding surface protectant; AND it is one of the best products I’ve ever found for the longterm protection of, ‘safe queens’. (According to tests I’ve seen, Eezox is slightly better at repelling water; but Eezox is also too potentially harmful for me to want to expose myself to its potentially carcinogenic effects.)

With FrogLube on the outside of my guns the metal and polymer really shines! It, also, lasts for months and months, far longer than any fluid CLP that I know of; and it requires little or no touchup, as well. If the gun gets wet just wipe it dry; and you don't have to be quick about it, either. Water can actually sit right on top of FrogLube treated metal for days at a time without causing rust!

On the inside of the gun I use any of the better CLP’s. Most often, Break-Free, Weapon Shield, or Ballistol. All work well; but, I’ve discovered that because of it’s heavy mineral oil base Ballistol is NOT a good longterm metal protectant. If a gun were to be put away for more than, say, six months I wouldn’t use Ballistol to protect it. Ballistol congeals; and, while it doesn’t become acidic like WD40, it will gum up, and eventually harden.

On a heavily used gun: Break-Free, Weapon Shield, and Lucas Gun Oil run off too quickly for my liking; and I prefer to use light grease. (I'm presently, 'up in the air' about which light grease to use?)

Personally, I very much dislike RemOil. I've found it to be way too invasive; and I don’t want to expose primers - especially primers in cheap (range-quality) ammunition - to it. Lucas Gun Oil is as light as I’m willing to go; and I've discovered that anything RemOil will do Lucas Gun Oil can do equally well. (Feels better on my skin, too.)

P89;169923 Wrote:I have fallen in love with Fluid Film. This stuff does everything.
Quote:Guns: Spray FLUID FILM on a rag and then rub down the firearm, leaving a thin film which will not leave fingerprints or come off on hands or clothes. Provides tack-free mechanism lubrication. Use on bolts, slides and magazines. Will not affect the bluing. Conditions wood-stock. Excellent for use on black powder guns and for moisture prevention.

http://www.fluid-film.com/applications/recreation/

I've been bashed several times on other boards for referring automotive products for firearms use. Maybe I'm the only one who realizes that a firearm is a mechanical device...I'm not sure.

I have found that some of these products work far better than things marketed for firearms and often at a cheaper price. I've also found that some gun solvents are basically the same and just in a different can.

Here's another great automotive product that has expanded to include firearms. I use it and have notice some fantastic results.

http://www.zmax.com/products/firearms/

The manufacturer DOES recommend Fluid-Film for use on firearms. If I ever run out of gun cleaning products (Which with my present inventory ain't going to happen anytime soon.) I’d be willing to give Fluid-Film a try.

The other gun protectant I’d like to test; and, someday, intend to try is Ray’s Gun Wax. It’s made, right here, in Northeastern Pennsylvania, has been around for almost two decades, and the guys on Channel Thirteen really seem to like it. (Sounds a lot like FrogLube to me!) Wink
L'enfer c’est les autres, et les choses terribles qu'ils font!'  -  Jean-Paul Sartre  
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#8
Stinger;169949 Wrote:
das;169922 Wrote:I know that this has been discussed many times but I have been looking into what the best rust preventative is. Some say tests show Eezox other tests say CLP so I cant find any info on if one definitely out performs the other. Please let me know what you would recommend and what to stay away from.

I have been using CLP and my guns are in a safe with three large desiccants. It seems to me the CLP either evaporates or dries up but maybe it leaves a coating behind, I don’t know. Thank you for any replies.

OK, I'm going to try to keep this brief: Personally I don't use Eezox. I think it's got a scary MSDS, and contains several carcinogenic chemicals that I don't want, either, in my home or on my skin. I, also, feel the same way about either flavor of brake and carburetor cleaner - I don’t use them.

For the past two years I’ve used FrogLube on the outside of my guns. I follow the manufacturer’s directions; and, after I finish, ‘baking’ the FL treatment into a gun I disassemble it and, very carefully, wipe off any drips or residual excess that I find might have leaked into the mechanism. (Either this, or I’ll stand the gun upside down or hang it while it’s being treated in order to prevent any excess from dripping into the action.)

By using this technique I’ve managed to avoid ALL of the usual complaints about FrogLube being sticky, and gumming up a firing pin, or some such. (It’s common sense, actually!) After, ‘baking it in’ with either my wife’s hair dryer or one of our electric space heaters, I use a soft cotton wash cloth to put a high gloss on the parts. (FL's application process is the same as using wax to polish an automobile. You shouldn't be able to see the wax when you're done.)

FrogLube is not a gun oil, or CLP; and it should not be used as such. It is, instead, an outstanding surface protectant; AND it is one of the best products I’ve ever found for the longterm protection of, ‘safe queens’. (According to tests I’ve seen, Eezox is slightly better at repelling water; but Eezox is also too potentially harmful for me to want to expose myself to its potentially carcinogenic effects.)

With FrogLube on the outside of my guns the metal and polymer really shines! It, also, lasts for months and months, far longer than any fluid CLP that I know of; and it requires little or no touchup, as well. If the gun gets wet just wipe it dry; and you don't have to be quick about it, either. Water can actually sit right on top of FrogLube treated metal for days at a time without causing rust!

On the inside of the gun I use any of the better CLP’s. Most often, Break-Free, Weapon Shield, or Ballistol. All work well; but, I’ve discovered that because of it’s heavy mineral oil base Ballistol is NOT a good longterm metal protectant. If a gun were to be put away for more than, say, six months I wouldn’t use Ballistol to protect it. Ballistol congeals; and, while it doesn’t become acidic like WD40, it will gum up, and eventually harden.

On a heavily used gun: Break-Free, Weapon Shield, and Lucas Gun Oil run off too quickly for my liking; and I prefer to use light grease. (I'm presently, 'up in the air' about which light grease to use?)

Personally, I very much dislike RemOil. I've found it to be way too invasive; and I don’t want to expose primers - especially primers in cheap (range-quality) ammunition - to it. Lucas Gun Oil is as light as I’m willing to go; and I've discovered that anything RemOil will do Lucas Gun Oil can do equally well. (Feels better on my skin, too.)

P89;169923 Wrote:I have fallen in love with Fluid Film. This stuff does everything.

http://www.fluid-film.com/applications/recreation/

I've been bashed several times on other boards for referring automotive products for firearms use. Maybe I'm the only one who realizes that a firearm is a mechanical device...I'm not sure.

I have found that some of these products work far better than things marketed for firearms and often at a cheaper price. I've also found that some gun solvents are basically the same and just in a different can.

Here's another great automotive product that has expanded to include firearms. I use it and have notice some fantastic results.

http://www.zmax.com/products/firearms/

The manufacturer DOES recommend Fluid-Film for use on firearms. If I ever run out of gun cleaning products (Which with my present inventory ain't going to happen anytime soon.) I’d be willing to give Fluid-Film a try.

The other gun protectant I’d like to test; and, someday, intend to try is Ray’s Gun Wax. It’s made, right here, in Northeastern Pennsylvania, has been around for almost two decades, and the guys on Channel Thirteen really seem to like it. (Sounds a lot like FrogLube to me!) Wink
Stinger, thak you. Excellent post and very informative about the Frog Lube. Greatly appreciate your input. Rep comming your way.
das, proud to be a member of pa2a.org since Sep 2012.
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#9
Weapon Shield for me...good product and it's made in Pennsylvania!
___________________________________________________________
A Reading from the Book of Armaments, Chapter 4, Verses 16 to 20:

Then did he raise on high the Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch, saying, "Bless this, O Lord, that with it thou mayst blow thine enemies to tiny bits, in thy mercy." And the people did rejoice and did feast upon the lambs and toads and tree-sloths and fruit-bats and orangutans and breakfast cereals ... Now did the Lord say, "First thou pullest the Holy Pin. Then thou must count to three. Three shall be the number of the counting and the number of the counting shall be three. Four shalt thou not count, neither shalt thou count two, excepting that thou then proceedeth to three. Five is right out. Once the number three, being the number of the counting, be reached, then lobbest thou the Holy Hand Grenade in the direction of thine foe, who, being naughty in my sight, shall snuff it."
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#10
Being more of a collector, I have been using Weaponshield on metal and Balistol on the wood of firearms I am storing.
I use the $5 Allen gunsocks from Walmart (just scored a dozen on closeout at Tractor Supply for $3ea) to help keep dings and dents away.
This is my current, as in the last couple years method.
Prior to this i simply used Breakfree CLP non-aerosol.

As for using motor oil, 0-20 full synthetic is cheap by the quart compared to a quart of "gun oil" and I use it for range oil when it's wet outside.

I also have more than a couple handguns that have been stripped of their grips and then stored in ammo cans full of motor oil.
I've had some that have been stored like this for 20 years with zero ill effects.
I have actually considered making up PVC tubes and storing some high dollar military firearms in tubes filled with oil.
Some people need to read this book: http://www.amazon.com/dp/1936976021/ref=...jwbZH1GAZF

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